OWNERS MANUAL (ALL MODELS)

MANUALS AND USER GUIDES – MOBIABIKES

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Document DEVICE REPORTMobia Owners Manual all models Oct 2018 ?9957864598629941294
BICYCLE OWNER'S MANUAL
©2018 Mobia Bikes, all rights reserved

BICYCLE OWNER'S MANUAL
BPSA 11th Edition, 2015 This manual meets EN ISO-4210, 16 CFR 1512 and EN 16054 Standards
IMPORTANT
This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference.
Additional safety, performance and service information for specific components such as suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets or lights that you purchase, may also be available from those respective brands websites. In case of a conflict between the instructions in this manual and information provided by a component manufacturer, always follow the component manufacturer's instructions.
If you have any questions or do not understand something, take responsibility for your safety and consult with a qualified bicycle mechanic or MOBIA customer service.
NOTE: This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair or maintenance manual. Please consult with a qualified bicycle mechanic or MOBIA customer service for all service, repairs or maintenance.
INTENDED USE WARNING: UNDERSTAND YOUR BICYCLE AND ITS INTENDED USE. CHOOSING THE WRONG BICYCLE FOR YOUR PURPOSE CAN BE HAZARDOUS. USING YOUR BICYCLE THE WRONG WAY IS DANGEROUS AND WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.
CONDITION 1
INTENDED; MOBIA bicycles are for riding on paved surfaces where the tires do not lose ground contact. NOT INTENDED; MOBIA bicycles are not intended for children age 12 and under, off-road use, for touring with heavy loads, for carrying children or nonseated passengers.

MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMITS

BIKE MODEL INDUSTRIAL URBAN COMMUTER

RIDER LBS/KG 250/113 250/113

LUGGAGE LBS/KG 20/9 10/5

TOTAL LBS/KG 270/122 270/118

ASSEMBLY
All MOBIA bicycles ship mostly pre-assembled, with some minor final assembly required. Please refer to the assembly instructions available at www.mobiabikes.com/support for each bicycle style we offer. Once the bicycle is assembled, proceed to Section 1 of this manual.

WARNING: FAILURE TO FOLLOW OUR ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS COULD VOID YOUR WARRANTY AND MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
Please note all instructions are subject to change without notice. Please visit www.mobiabikes.com for periodic tech updates Got feedback: [email protected]

MOBIA BIKES 2677 El Presidio St., Long Beach, CA 90801 (310) 884-7756 or 888-800-5999 Document version; OM R1 07/18

INTRODUCTION
Thank you for choosing MOBIA!
In order to enjoy your new bike safely, proper assembly and adjustment are required. Please visit www. mobiabikes.com/support for the latest assembly instructions. These instructions should be reviewed in full before taking your new bicycle out of the box. If you have questions or need advice regarding assembly, or returns please contact the experts in our customer service department.
Toll free: 1-888-800-5999 Customer Service hours: Monday - Friday 8:30 a.m. - 5 p.m. Pacific Standard Time (PST)
You may also reach us at: Web: www.mobiabikes.com Email: [email protected]
Mail: MOBIA BIKES 2677 E EL PRESIDIO ST LONG BEACH, CA 90810
Please call or email us if you need assistance. You will need your serial number located on the bottom of the frames bottom bracket Mobia serial numbers typically start with the prefix "TAC" or TAT (for example, TAC16M10001) (See Section 4.A).
If you receive a product that arrives damaged make a written claim with the shipping company within their prescribed time frame. (Also make sure all cartons and packaging are saved to support your claim to the shipped). The MOBIA warranty does not cover damage occurring during shipping.
MOBIA Bicycle Limited Warranty For more information about our warranty policy, please check our website at www.mobiabikes.com/warranty.

Contents

MANUAL CONTENTS

GENERAL WARNING

1. First A. Bike fit B. Safety first C. Mechanical Safety Check D. First ride

2. Safety A. The Basics B. Riding Safety C. Wet Weather Riding D. Night Riding E. Extreme, stunt or competition riding F. Changing Components or Adding Accessories

3.Fit A. Standover height B. Saddle position C. Handlebar height and angle D. Control position adjustments E. Brake reach

4. Tech A. Serial Number B. Wheels 1. Front wheel secondary retention devices 2. Removing and installing wheels C. Seat post cam action clamp D. Brakes E. Shifting gears F. Belt Drive G. Front Baskets H. Pedals I. Tires and Tubes

5. Service A. Service Intervals B. If your bicycle sustains an impact

Appendix A: The lifespan of your bike and its components Appendix B: Fastener Torque Specifications

p. 1
p. 2 p. 2 p. 2 p. 4
p. 4 p. 5 p. 6 p. 6 p. 7 p. 7
p. 8 p. 8 p. 10 p. 10 p. 10
p. 11 p. 11 p. 11 p. 11 p. 12 p. 12 p. 14 p. 14 p. 14 p. 15 p. 15
p. 16 p. 17
p. 18 p. 21

GENERAL WARNING
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know -- and to practice -- the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury. This Manual contains many "Warnings" and "Cautions" concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices.
· The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death. · The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices. · The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty. Many of the Warnings and Cautions say, "You may lose control and fall". Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible injury or death. Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition that can occur while riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.
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1. FIRST
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this manual in its entirety before your first ride. At the very least, read and make sure that you understand each point in this section, and refer to the cited sections on any issue that you don't completely understand.
A. BICYCLE FIT 1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too small for you, you may lose control and fall.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4. C an you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust their angle and reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E.
5. D o you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your first ride, have a professional bicycle dealer or call MOBIA customer service about any functions or features that you do not understand.
B. SAFETY FIRST 1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer's instructions for fit, use and care.
2. D o you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? See Section 2. It's your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws.
3. D o you know how to correctly secure your front and rear wheels? Check Section 4.B.1 to make sure. Riding with an improperly secured wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or death.
4. D o you have "toe overlap"? On smaller framed bicycles (or with large footwear) your toe may be able to contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the way forward and the wheel is turned left or right. Read Section 4.H to check whether you have toe overlap.
C. MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK
Note: Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride.
 Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because manufacturers use a wide variety of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often differing by model and component, the correct tightening force or torque cannot be generalized. To make sure that the many fasteners on your bicycle are correctly tightened, refer to the Fastener Torque Specifications in the Appendix section B of this manual or to the torque specifications in the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the component in question.
Correctly tightening a fastener requires a calibrated torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench should torque the fasteners on your bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle, you must use a torque wrench and the correct tightening torque specifications from the bicycle or component manufacturer or a qualified bicycle mechanic. If you need to make an adjustment at home or in the field, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the fasteners you worked on checked by a qualified bicycle mechanic as soon as possible.
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WARNING: CORRECT TIGHTENING FORCE ON FASTENERS NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS- ON YOUR BICYCLE IS VERY IMPORTANT. TOO LITTLE FORCE, AND THE FASTENER MAY NOT HOLD SECURELY. TOO MUCH FORCE, AND THE FASTENER CAN STRIP THREADS, STRETCH, DEFORM OR BREAK. EITHER WAY, INCORRECT TIGHTENING FORCE CAN RESULT IN COMPONENT FAILURE, WHICH CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
 Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you're not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
 Tires & Wheels: MOBIA bikes use a unique "no-flat" rim and tire combination to help ensure the wheelsets are always ready to ride. Additional tire and wheel information can be found in Section 4.I.
 Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
 Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads or frame, take the bike to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION: WHEELS MUST BE TRUE TO WORK EFFECTIVELY. WHEEL TRUING IS A SKILL THAT REQUIRES SPECIAL TOOLS AND EXPERIENCE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TRUE A WHEEL UNLESS YOU HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE, EXPERIENCE AND TOOLS NEEDED TO DO THE JOB CORRECTLY.
 Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean and undamaged at the tire bead and, if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check to make sure that any rim wear indicator marking is not visible at any point on the wheel rim.
WARNING: BICYCLE WHEEL RIMS ARE SUBJECT TO WEAR. ASK A QUALIFIED BICYCLE MECHANIC OR MOBIA CUSTOMER SERVICE ABOUT WHEEL RIM WEAR. SOME WHEEL RIMS HAVE A RIM WEAR INDICATOR THAT BECOMES VISIBLE AS THE RIM'S BRAKING SURFACE WEARS. A VISIBLE RIM WEAR INDICATOR ON THE SIDE OF THE WHEEL RIM IS AN INDICATION THAT THE WHEEL RIM HAS REACHED ITS MAXIMUM USABLE LIFE. RIDING A WHEEL THAT IS AT THE END OF ITS USABLE LIFE CAN RESULT IN WHEEL FAILURE, WHICH CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.
 Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Section 4.D). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control cables seated and securely engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely and make full contact with the rim? Do the brakes begin to engage within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted by a qualified bicycle mechanic.
 Wheel retention system: Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly secured. See Section 4.B.
 Seat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam action fastener for easy height adjustment, check that it is properly adjusted and in the locked (closed) position. See Section 4.C.
 Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel to the bike's center line and clamped tight enough so that you can't twist them out of alignment. See Sections 3.C and 3.D.
 Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good condition, with no cuts, tears, or worn out areas. If not, contact MOBIA customer service to discuss replacing them. Make sure the handlebar ends are plugged.
WARNING: LOOSE OR DAMAGED HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR EXTENSIONS CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL OR FALL. UNPLUGGED HANDLEBARS OR EXTENSIONS CAN CUT YOU AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY IN AN OTHERWISE MINOR ACCIDENT.
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 Front Baskets: MOBIA bicycles are offered with front baskets which are specifically designed for our bicycle geometry. All baskets, fasteners and support brackets should be secure and in good working condition for proper use. See Section 4.G.
 Belt Drive: for proper belt drive performance inspection of the belt and sprockets should be periodically checked for excessive wear, damage, or cracking. Further information about the belt drive can be found in Section 4.F and Section 5.A.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the important information on the lifespan of your bicycle and its components in Appendix A on Page 18.

D. FIRST RIDE

When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new bike.

Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see Section 4.D). Test the brakes at slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying the brakes, rear brake first. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake could pitch you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can happen when a wheel locks up.

Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.E). Remember to never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.

Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.

If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it should be, contact MOBIA customer service before you ride again.

A. THE BASICS

2. SAFETY

WARNING: THE AREA IN WHICH YOU RIDE MAY REQUIRE SPECIFIC SAFETY DEVICES. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE LAWS OF THE AREA WHERE YOU RIDE AND TO COMPLY WITH ALL APPLICABLE LAWS, INCLUDING PROPERLY EQUIPPING YOURSELF AND YOUR BIKE AS THE LAW REQUIRES.

OBSERVE ALL LOCAL BICYCLE LAWS AND REGULATIONS. OBSERVE REGULATIONS ABOUT BICYCLE LIGHTING, LICENSING OF BICYCLES, RIDING ON SIDEWALKS, LAWS REGULATING BIKE PATHS AND TRAIL USE, HELMET LAWS, CHILD CARRIER LAWS, SPECIAL BICYCLE TRAFFIC LAWS. IT'S YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO KNOW AND OBEY THE LAWS.

IMAGE 1 1. Always wear a cycling helmet that meets the latest certification standards and is appropriate for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer's instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries that might have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate helmet. (See Image 1)
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WARNING: FAILURE TO WEAR A HELMET WHEN RIDING MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on the bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section 4.D); shifting (Section 4.E); pedals (Section 4.H)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of chainrings, the moving chain or belt, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear: · S hoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that shoelaces cannot get into moving parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals. · Bright, reflective, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail. · Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs -- tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it's not.
6. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher speed means higher risk.
B. RIDING SAFETY
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local traffic laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others -- motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid: · Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you. · Parked car doors opening. · Pedestrians stepping out. · Children or pets playing near the road. · Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheel or cause you to have an accident. · The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the edge of the road as practicable, in the direction of traffic flow or as directed by local governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating on what's going on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger.
10. N ever carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control of the bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don't do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with your bike despite our advice not to, read Section 2.E, Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now. Think carefully about your skills before deciding to take the large risks that go with this kind of riding.
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13. D on't weave through traffic or make any moves that may surprise people with whom you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident.
C. WET WEATHER RIDING
WARNING: WET WEATHER IMPAIRS TRACTION, BRAKING AND VISIBILITY, BOTH FOR THE BICYCLIST AND FOR OTHER VEHICLES SHARING THE ROAD. THE RISK OF AN ACCIDENT IS DRAMATICALLY INCREASED IN WET CONDITIONS.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don't grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose control. To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions.
D. NIGHT RIDING
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding during the day. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, we suggest you never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialized equipment that helps reduce that risk. Consult a professional bicycle shop about night riding safety equipment.
WARNING: REFLECTORS ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR LEGALLY REQUIRED LIGHTS. RIDING AT DAWN, AT DUSK, AT NIGHT OR AT OTHER TIMES OF POOR VISIBILITY WITHOUT AN ADEQUATE BICYCLE LIGHTING SYSTEM AND WITHOUT REFLECTORS IS DANGEROUS AND MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect car lights and street lights in a way that may help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION: CHECK REFLECTORS AND THEIR MOUNTING BRACKETS REGULARLY TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CLEAN, STRAIGHT, UNBROKEN AND SECURELY MOUNTED. REPLACE ANY DAMAGED REFLECTORS AND STRAIGHTEN OR TIGHTEN ANY THAT ARE BENT OR LOOSE.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT AND REAR REFLECTORS OR REFLECTOR BRACKETS FROM YOUR BICYCLE. THEY ARE IN INTEGRAL PART OF THE BICYCLES SAFETY SYSTEM. REMOVING THE REFLECTORS REDUCES YOUR VISIBILITY TO OTHERS USING THE ROADWAY. BEING STRUCK BY OTHER VEHICLES MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you comply with all local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly recommended additional precautions:
· Purchase and install battery or generator powered head and tail lights which meet all regulatory requirements for where you live and provide adequate visibility.
· Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights attached to your body and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device or light source that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other traffic.
· Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a reflector or light.
· Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted reflectors.
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While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night: · Ride slowly. · Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving traffic. · Avoid road hazards. · If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in traffic: · Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements. · Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected. · If you plan to ride in traffic often, ask a professional bicycle shop about traffic safety classes or a good book on bicycle traffic safety.
E. EXTREME, STUNT OR COMPETITION RIDING
If you engage in extreme, aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury or death. MOBIA bikes are NOT designed for this type of riding.
WARNING: ALTHOUGH MANY CATALOGS, ADVERTISEMENTS AND ARTICLES ABOUT BICYCLING DEPICT RIDERS ENGAGED IN EXTREME RIDING. THIS ACTIVITY IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS, INCREASES YOUR RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH, AND INCREASES THE SEVERITY OF ANY INJURY. REMEMBER THAT THE ACTION DEPICTED IS BEING PERFORMED BY PROFESSIONALS WITH MANY YEARS OF TRAINING AND EXPERIENCE. KNOW YOUR LIMITS AND ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET AND OTHER APPROPRIATE SAFETY GEAR. EVEN WITH STATE-OF-THE-ART PROTECTIVE SAFETY GEAR, YOU COULD BE SERIOUSLY INJURED OR KILLED WHEN JUMPING, STUNT RIDING, RIDING DOWNHILL AT SPEED OR IN COMPETITION IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY.
WARNING: BICYCLES AND BICYCLE PARTS HAVE LIMITATIONS WITH REGARD TO STRENGTH AND INTEGRITY, AND THIS TYPE OF RIDING CAN EXCEED THOSE LIMITATIONS.
F. CHANGING COMPONENTS OR ADDING ACCESSORIES
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change components or add accessories, which are not MOBIA Bike branded, you do so at your own risk.
MOBIA does not test non-approved or Non MOBIA branded components or accessories for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before installing any component or accessory, including but not limited to a lighting system, a luggage rack, a child seat, a trailer, etc., make sure that it is compatible with your bicycle by checking with a professional bicycle dealer or MOBIA customer service. Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for your bicycle.
WARNING: FAILURE TO CONFIRM COMPATIBILITY, PROPERLY INSTALL, OPERATE AND MAINTAIN ANY COMPONENT OR ACCESSORY CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING: CHANGING THE COMPONENTS ON YOUR BIKE WITH OTHER THAN GENUINE MOBIA REPLACEMENT PARTS MAY COMPRISE THE SAFETY OF YOUR BICYCLE AND MAY VOID THE WARRANTY. CHECK WITH A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE DEALER CHANGING THE COMPONENTS ON YOUR BIKE.
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3. FIT
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety, performance and comfort. Making the adjustments to your bicycle that result in correct fit for your body and riding conditions requires experience, skill and special tools. Always have a qualified bicycle mechanic make the adjustments on your bicycle before riding.

WARNING: IF YOUR BICYCLE DOES NOT FIT PROPERLY, YOU MAY LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. CONTACT MOBIA CUSTOMER SERVICE FOR ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT BICYCLE FIT.

IMAGE 2

IMAGE 3

A. STANDOVER HEIGHT
1. Diamond frame bicycles Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see IMAGE 2). It is the distance from the ground to the top of the bicycle's frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the bike. To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which you'll be riding. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don't even ride the bike around the block. A MOBIA bike should give you a minimum standover height clearance of one inch (25mm).
2. Step-through frame bicycles Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to adjust your saddle position as described in 3.B without exceeding the limits set by the height of the top of the seat tube and the "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum Extension" mark on the seat post.
B. SADDLE POSITION
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see a professional bicycle dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions: 1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle height (see IMAGE 3):
· Sit on the saddle; · Place one heel on a pedal; · Rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank arm is
parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
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See instructional video at www.mobiabikes.com/support on how to set the saddle for your optimal riding position. It will show you how to:  Loosen the seat post clamp  Raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube  Make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft  Re-tighten the seat post clamp to the recommended torque (Appendix B or the manufacturer's
instructions).

Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seat post does not project from the frame beyond its "Minimum Insertion" or "Maximum Extension" mark (see IMAGE 4).

IMAGE 4

WARNING: IF YOUR SEAT POST IS NOT INSERTED IN THE SEAT TUBE AS DESCRIBED IN 3.B.1 ABOVE, THE SEAT POST, BINDER OR EVEN FRAME MAY BREAK, WHICH COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.

2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask a professional bicycle dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own front and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you are using the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s) (Appendix B or the manufacturer's instructions).

3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. A professional bicycle dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle angle adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations on the mechanism to disengage before changing the saddle's angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended torque (Appendix B or the manufacturer's instructions).

WARNING: WHEN MAKING SADDLE ANGLE ADJUSTMENTS WITH A SINGLE BOLT SADDLE CLAMP, ALWAYS CHECK TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SERRATIONS ON THE MATING SURFACES OF THE CLAMP ARE NOT WORN. WORN SERRATIONS ON THE CLAMP CAN ALLOW THE SADDLE TO MOVE, CAUSING YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. ALWAYS TIGHTEN FASTENERS TO THE CORRECT TORQUE. BOLTS THAT ARE TOO TIGHT CAN STRETCH AND DEFORM. BOLTS THAT ARE TOO LOOSE CAN MOVE AND FATIGUE. EITHER MISTAKE CAN LEAD TO A SUDDEN FAILURE OF THE BOLT, CAUSING YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FAIL.

Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial effect on performance and comfort. To find your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.

WARNING: AFTER ANY SADDLE ADJUSTMENTS, BE SURE THAT THE SADDLE ADJUSTING MECHANISM IS PROPERLY SEATED AND TIGHTENED BEFORE RIDING. A LOOSE SADDLE CLAMP OR SEAT POST CLAMP CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SEAT POST, OR CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. A CORRECTLY TIGHTENED SADDLE ADJUSTING MECHANISM WILL ALLOW NO SADDLE MOVEMENT IN ANY DIRECTION. PERIODICALLY CHECK TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SADDLE ADJUSTING MECHANISM IS PROPERLY TIGHTENED.

If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people, come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. A professional bicycle dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.

WARNING: SOME PEOPLE HAVE CLAIMED THAT EXTENDED RIDING WITH THE SADDLE WHICH IS INCORRECTLY ADJUSTED OR WHICH DOES NOT SUPPORT YOUR PELVIC AREA CORRECTLY CAN CAUSE SHORT-TERM OR LONG-TERM INJURY TO NERVES AND BLOOD VESSELS, OR EVEN MALE IMPOTENCE. IF YOUR SADDLE CAUSES YOU PAIN, NUMBNESS OR OTHER DISCOMFORT, LISTEN TO YOUR BODY AND STOP RIDING UNTIL YOU SEE A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE ABOUT SADDLE ADJUSTMENT OR A DIFFERENT SADDLE.
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C. HANDLEBAR HEIGHT AND ANGLE

Your bike is equipped with a "threadless" stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube (see IMAGE 5).

If you want to change the stem height, contact a professional bicycle dealer. They may be able to change the handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you'll have to get a stem of different length or rise. Do not attempt to do this adjustment yourself, as it requires special, skill, knowledge and tools.

IMAGE 5

WARNING: ON SOME BICYCLES, CHANGING THE STEM OR STEM HEIGHT CAN AFFECT THE TENSION OF THE FRONT BRAKE CABLE, LOCKING THE FRONT BRAKE OR CREATING EXCESS CABLE SLACK WHICH CAN MAKE THE FRONT BRAKE INOPERABLE. IF THE FRONT BRAKE PADS MOVE IN TOWARDS THE WHEEL RIM OR OUT AWAY FROM THE WHEEL RIM WHEN THE STEM HEIGHT IS CHANGED, THE BRAKES MUST BE CORRECTLY ADJUSTED BEFORE YOU RIDE THE BICYCLE.

WARNING: ALWAYS TIGHTEN FASTENERS TO THE CORRECT TORQUE. BOLTS THAT ARE TOO TIGHT CAN STRETCH AND DEFORM. BOLTS THAT ARE TOO LOOSE CAN MOVE AND FATIGUE. EITHER MISTAKE CAN LEAD TO A SUDDEN FAILURE OF THE BOLT, CAUSING YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.

WARNING: AN INSUFFICIENT TIGHTENED STEM CLAMP BOLT, OR HANDLEBAR CLAMP BOLT MAY COMPROMISE STEERING ACTION, WHICH COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. PLACE THE FRONT WHEEL OF THE BICYCLE BETWEEN YOUR LEGS AND ATTEMPT TO TWIST THE HANDLEBAR/STEM ASSEMBLY. IF YOU CAN TWIST THE STEM IN RELATION TO THE FRONT WHEEL, OR TURN THE HANDLEBARS IN RELATION TO THE STEM, THE BOLTS ARE INSUFFICIENTLY TIGHTENED.

D. CONTROL POSITION ADJUSTMENTS

The angle of the handlebar, brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebar can be changed. Ask a qualified bicycle mechanic to make the adjustments for you. If you choose to make your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (Appendix B or the manufacturer's instructions).

E. BRAKE REACH

Many bikes have brake levers that can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers, a qualified bicycle mechanic can either adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.

WARNING: THE SHORTER THE BRAKE LEVER REACH, THE MORE CRITICAL IT IS TO HAVE CORRECTLY ADJUSTED BRAKES, SO THAT FULL BRAKING POWER CAN BE APPLIED WITHIN AVAILABLE BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL. BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL INSUFFICIENT TO APPLY FULL BRAKING POWER CAN RESULT IN LOSS OF CONTROL, WHICH MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

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4. TECH
It's important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how things work on your bicycle. We urge you to ask a qualified bicycle mechanic how to do the things described in this section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have your dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something in this section of the Manual, talk to a professional bicycle dealer or consult with MOBIA customer service. See also Appendix A and B.

A. SERIAL NUMBER Each MOBIA bicycle is uniquely identified by its serial number located on the underside of the bottom bracket shell of the frame. This serial number is important when communicating with MOBIA customer service or determining warranty information. MOBIA serial numbers typically start with the prefix "TAC" or TAT (for example, TAC16M10001). See IMAGE 6.
If you don't know where the bottom bracket shell of the bike is, simply turn the bike upside-down and the bottom bracket is the part of the frame that the pedal cranks run through. You will see the serial number stamped into the frame tubing.
B. WHEELS

IMAGE 6
TAC 16M10001 TAC
16M10001
This serial number should start with
This serial numthbe eprre sxh"oTAuCld" osrtTaArTt with the pre x "TAC(fo"r eoxarmTpAle,TTAC16M10001) (for example, TAC16M10001)

WARNING: RIDING WITH AN IMPROPERLY SECURED WHEEL CAN ALLOW THE WHEEL

TO WOBBLE OR FALL OFF THE BICYCLE, WHICH CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR

DEATH. THEREFORE, IT IS ESSENTIAL

THAT EACH TIME, BEFORE YOU RIDE THE

BICYCLE, CHECK THAT THE WHEEL IS

SECURELY BOLTED INTO THE FORK AND

OR REAR PORTION OF THE FRAME AND

THAT THE RIM/WHEEL DOES NOT WOBBLE

WHEN SPUN/ROTATED OR RUB ON ANY

PORTION OF THE FRAME OF THE BICYCLE (See IMAGE 7).

IMAGE 7

1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices Most bicycles have front forks that utilize a secondary wheel retention device to reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly secured. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your front wheel.

MOBIA bikes are equipped with a secondary retention device built into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE OR DISABLE THE SECONDARY RETENTION DEVICE. AS ITS NAME IMPLIES, IT SERVES AS A BACKUP FOR A CRITICAL ADJUSTMENT. IF THE WHEEL IS NOT SECURED CORRECTLY, THE SECONDARY RETENTION DEVICE CAN REDUCE THE RISK OF THE WHEEL DISENGAGING FROM THE FORK. REMOVING OR DISABLING THE SECONDARY RETENTION DEVICE WILL ALSO VOID THE WARRANTY.

SECONDARY RETENTION DEVICES ARE NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR CORRECTLY SECURING YOUR WHEEL. FAILURE TO PROPERLY SECURE THE WHEEL CAN CAUSE THE WHEEL TO WOBBLE OR DISENGAGE, WHICH COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL, RESULTING IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

2. Removing and installing wheels

WARNING: IF YOUR BIKE IS EQUIPPED WITH A HUB BRAKE SUCH AS A REAR COASTER BRAKE, FRONT OR REAR DRUM, BAND OR ROLLER BRAKE; OR IT HAS AN INTERNAL GEAR HUB, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE WHEEL. THE REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION OF MOST HUB BRAKES AND INTERNAL GEAR HUBS REQUIRE SPECIAL KNOWLEDGE. INCORRECT REMOVAL OR ASSEMBLY CAN RESULT IN BRAKE OR GEAR FAILURE, WHICH CAN CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL.

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C. SEAT POST CAM ACTION CLAMP

MOBIA bikes are equipped with a cam action (quick release type) seat post cam binder to prevent the seat post from slipping or moving. The seat post cam action binder works exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener. While a cam action binder looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to firmly clamp the seat post (IMAGE 8).

WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask a qualified bicycle mechanic to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post. 3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seat post is securely clamped.

Adjusting the seat post cam action mechanism

The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat

post to hold the seat post securely in place. The amount of

clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning

the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever

from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise

while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force.

Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe and unsafe clamping force.

ADJUSTING NUT

CLOSED
CAM LEVER
IMAGE 8

ADJUST OPEN

WARNING: THE FULL FORCE OF THE CAM ACTION IS NEEDED TO CLAMP THE SEAT POST SECURELY. HOLDING THE NUT WITH ONE HAND AND TURNING THE LEVER LIKE A WING NUT WITH THE OTHER HAND UNTIL EVERYTHING IS AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN GET IT WILL NOT CLAMP THE SEAT POST SAFELY.

WARNING: IF YOU CAN FULLY CLOSE THE CAM LEVER WITHOUT WRAPPING YOUR FINGERS AROUND THE SEATPOST OR A FRAME TUBE FOR LEVERAGE, AND THE LEVER DOES NOT LEAVE A CLEAR IMPRINT IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND, THE TENSION IS INSUFFICIENT. OPEN THE LEVER, TURN THE TENSION ADJUSTING NUT CLOCKWISE A QUARTER TURN; THEN TRY AGAIN.

D. BRAKES

Your MOBIA bike will have one of two types of brakes; drum brakes or coaster brakes. Drum brakes operate by using a handlebar mounted lever which in turn moves brake pads into contact with the inside of the front/rear hub shell. Coaster brakes operate by pedaling the crank arms backwards.

WARNING: RIDING WITH IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED BRAKES IS DANGEROUS AND CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. APPLYING BRAKES TOO HARD OR TOO SUDDENLY CAN LOCK UP A WHEEL, WHICH COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. SUDDEN OR EXCESSIVE APPLICATION OF THE FRONT BRAKE MAY PITCH THE RIDER OVER THE HANDLEBARS, WHICH MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. TAKE EXTRA CARE IN BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH THESE BRAKES AND EXERCISE PARTICULAR CARE WHEN USING THEM.

SEE THE MOBIA MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS (WWW.MOBIABIKES.COM/SUPPORT ) FOR OPERATION AND CARE OF YOUR BRAKES, AND FOR WHEN BRAKE PADS MUST BE REPLACED. OR CONTACT A QUALIFIED BICYCLE MECHANIC. IF REPLACING WORN OR DAMAGED PARTS, USE ONLY MOBIA-APPROVED GENUINE REPLACEMENT PARTS.

1. Brake controls and features It's very important to your safety that you learn and remember which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. MOBIA brakes are set up as follows; the right brake lever controls the rear brake and the left brake lever controls the front brake.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design.
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2. How brakes work The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the braking surfaces.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel "locks up" (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you'll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It's important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on descents, because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It will take longer to stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.
3. How the coaster brake works The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism that is a part of the bicycle's rear wheel hub. The brake is activated by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks (IMAGE 9). Start with the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with the front pedal in about the 4 o'clock position, and apply downward foot pressure on the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turn rotation will activate the brake. The more downward pressure you apply, the more braking force, up to the point where the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.
WARNING: BEFORE RIDING, MAKE SURE THE BRAKE IS WORKING PROPERLY. IF IT IS NOT WORKING PROPERLY, HAVE THE BICYCLE CHECKED BY A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE DEALER BEFORE YOU RIDE IT.
WARNING: IF YOUR BIKE HAS ONLY A COASTER BRAKE, RIDE CONSERVATIVELY. A SINGLE REAR BRAKE DOES NOT HAVE THE STOPPING POWER OF FRONT AND REAR BRAKE SYSTEMS.
4. Adjusting your coaster brake Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble or service your coaster brake. Take the bicycle to a qualified bicycle mechanic for coaster brake service.
IMAGE 9
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E. SHIFTING GEARS
Your MOBIA bicycle is either a single speed or a multi-speed bicycle with an internal gear hub drivetrain.
1. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:
· a finite set of speeds (anywhere from three to 18 speeds or more), or possibly an infinitely variable internal gear hub
· one, or sometimes two shifters · one or two control cables · one front sprocket called a chainring · a drive chain
a. Shifting internal gear hub gears Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.
b.Which gear should I be in? The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear is for the greatest speed. Shifting from an easier, "slower" gear (like 1) to a harder, "faster" gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, "faster" gear to an easier, "slower" gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the "starting gear" for the conditions -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you've built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See a professional bicycle dealer for help.
c. What if it won't shift gears? If while pedaling and moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to a qualified bicycle mechanic to have it adjusted.
F. BELT DRIVE
Some MOBIA bikes are equipped with a Gates Carbon DriveTM belt drive transmission system. The Gates Carbon DriveTM belt drive system is a great feature to reduce maintenance over other transmissions systems, but does require some attention to optimize performance. The belt requires proper handling, proper sprocket alignment, and the correct belt tension by a qualified bicycle mechanic. To learn more about these belt drive systems, please reference the Gates Carbon DriveTM manual included with this bicycle. You can also find more information at: http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/ resources/manuals-and-tech .
G. FRONT BASKETS
MOBIA front baskets are designed to fit our specific bicycle geometry. Our baskets are intended to carry items in a convenient location for the rider. Each basket design has a sticker visible to the rider stating the maximum loading capacity. Extra care should be given when loading the basket so small items do not fall through basket openings, large items do not reduce vision, and loose items in the basket do not slide around affecting the steering control of the bicycle.
WARNING: NEVER CARRY PASSENGERS, PETS, OR THINGS THAT REDUCE YOUR VISION OR CONTROL OF THE BICYCLE. BE AWARE THAT RIDING AND PARKING WITH A LOAD
IN THE FRONT BASKET MAY MAKE STEERING MORE DIFFICULT AND MAKE IT EASIER FOR THE BICYCLE TO TIP OVER.
It's important that all fasteners and basket mounting brackets remain at the correct tightness (See Appendix B) and checked according to the maintenance schedule (Service 5.A).
For further information about the assembly or removal of these baskets, please see www.mobiabikes.com/support.
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H. PEDALS
Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the forward-most position. This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
NOTE: Changing tire size or pedal crank arm length affects toe overlap.
WARNING: TOE OVERLAP COULD CAUSE YOU TO LOSE CONTROL AND FALL. ASK A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE DEALER TO HELP DETERMINE IF THE COMBINATION OF FRAME SIZE, CRANK ARM LENGTH, PEDAL DESIGN AND SHOES YOU WILL USE RESULTS IN PEDAL OVERLAP. WHETHER YOU HAVE OVERLAP OR NOT, YOU MUST KEEP THE INSIDE PEDAL UP AND THE OUTSIDE PEDAL DOWN WHEN MAKING SHARP TURNS.
I. TIRES AND TUBES
1. Tires Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. MOBIA flat free bicycle tires are intended for use on paved roads only.
WARNING: TIRE TRACTION IS AFFECTED BY RIDING SURFACE CONDITIONS. CONDITIONS LIKE LOOSE GRAVEL, WET ROADS OR PATHS, OR RIDING ON PAINTED ROADWAY LINES MAY REDUCE TRACTION AND INCREASE THE DIFFICULTY OF HANDLING THE BICYCLE WHICH CAN LEAD TO ACCIDENTS.
MOBIA flat free tires are designed to perfectly fit our rims to provide a durable, and long lasting flat free tire which is another key feature to our low maintenance bikes. Due to the design and fitment with the rim, our tires should only be replaced with the same model tire. If for any reason replacement tires are needed, contact MOBIA customer service.
Our tires should be inspected for excessive wear or damage according to the maintenance guidelines found on our website at www.mobiabikes.com/support.
CAUTION: HARD BRAKING PRODUCING A SKID OF THE REAR TIRE, COULD RESULT IN FLAT SPOTS ON THE TIRE, WHICH COULD LEAD TO AN UNBALANCED TIRE RESULTING IN AN UNEVEN RIDE FEEL AND DIFFICULTY TO CONTROL THE BICYCLE.
5. SERVICE
WARNING: TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES HAVE MADE BICYCLES AND BICYCLE COMPONENTS MORE COMPLEX, AND THE PACE OF INNOVATION IS INCREASING. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE FOR THIS MANUAL TO PROVIDE ALL THE INFORMATION REQUIRED TO PROPERLY REPAIR AND/OR MAINTAIN YOUR BICYCLE. IN ORDER TO HELP MINIMIZE THE CHANCES OF AN ACCIDENT AND POSSIBLE INJURY, IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU HAVE ANY REPAIR OR MAINTENANCE THAT IS NOT SPECIFICALLY DESCRIBED IN THIS MANUAL PERFORMED BY A QUALIFIED BICYCLE MECHANIC. EQUALLY IMPORTANT IS THAT YOUR INDIVIDUAL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS WILL BE DETERMINED BY EVERYTHING FROM YOUR RIDING STYLE TO GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION. CONSULT HELP IN DETERMINING YOUR MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS.
WARNING: MANY BICYCLE SERVICE AND REPAIR TASKS REQUIRE SPECIAL KNOWLEDGE AND TOOLS. DO NOT BEGIN ANY ADJUSTMENTS OR SERVICE ON YOUR BICYCLE UNTIL YOU HAVE LEARNED FROM A QUALIFIED BICYCLE MECHANIC HOW TO PROPERLY COMPLETE THEM. IMPROPER ADJUSTMENT OR SERVICE MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE BICYCLE OR IN AN ACCIDENT WHICH CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
If you want to learn to do your own routine bicycle maintenance, we recommend that you ask a qualified bicycle mechanic to check the quality of your work the first time you work on something and before you
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ride the bike, just to make sure that you did everything correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, there may be a modest charge for this service.
We also recommend that you ask a professional bicycle shop or MOBIA customer service for guidance on what spare parts, such as tires, inner tubes, light bulbs, batteries, patch kit, lubricants etc. it would be appropriate for you to have once you have learned how to replace such parts when they require replacement.
A. SERVICE INTERNALS
Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the owner, and require no special tools or knowledge beyond what is presented in this manual. Please also check on the www.mobiabikes.com/ support website for further service maintenance information.
The following are examples of the type of service checks you can perform yourself. All other service, maintenance and repair should be performed in a properly equipped facility by a qualified bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and procedures specified by the manufacturer.
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break it in before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch or "seat" when a new bike is first used and may require readjustment by a qualified bicycle mechanic. Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) will help you identify some things that need readjustment. But even if everything seems fine to you, it's best to take your bike back to a qualified bicycle mechanic for a checkup. One way to judge when it's time for the first checkup is to bring the bike in after 10 to 15 hours of on-road use. But if you think something is wrong with the bike, take it to a professional bicycle dealer before riding it again.
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C).
3. After every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly lubricate the chain's rollers with a good quality bicycle chain lubricant. Wipe off excess lubricant with a lint-free cloth. Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to a qualified bicycle mechanic about the best lubricants and the recommended lubrication frequency for your area.
If your bicycle is equipped with a belt drive system, check to ensure the belts and sprockets do have not excessive wear, damage or cracks. Guidelines as what constitutes excessive wear can be found in Section 4.F.
4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours of riding: · Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose headset. Have a qualified bicycle mechanic check it. · Lift the front wheel off the ground and turn it from side to side. Feel smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the steering, you may have an over-tight headset. Have a qualified bicycle mechanic check it. · Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have a qualified bicycle mechanic check it. · Take a look at the brake pads. Are they worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have a qualified bicycle mechanic adjust or replace them. · Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have a qualified bicycle mechanic replace them. · Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If any feel loose, have your dealer check the wheel for tension and trueness. · Check the tires for excess wear, cuts or bruises. Have a qualified bicycle mechanic replace them if necessary. · Check the wheel rims for excess wear, dings, dents and scratches. Consult a qualified bicycle mechanic if you see any rim damage. · Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure, and tighten any (with a torque wrench to the specified torque) that are not. · Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints; the handlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. See also Appendix A. · Check both sprockets and the belt drive for wear or damage. For further guidelines see Section 4.F.
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WARNING: LIKE ANY MECHANICAL DEVICE, A BICYCLE AND ITS COMPONENTS ARE SUBJECT TO WEAR AND STRESS. DIFFERENT MATERIALS AND MECHANISMS WEAR OR FATIGUE FROM STRESS AT DIFFERENT RATES AND HAVE DIFFERENT LIFE CYCLES. IF A COMPONENTS LIFE CYCLE IS EXCEEDED, THE COMPONENT CAN SUDDENLY AND CATASTROPHICALLY FAIL, CAUSING SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH TO THE RIDER. SCRATCHES, CRACKS, FRAYING AND DISCOLORATION ARE SIGNS OF STRESS-CAUSED FATIGUE AND INDICATE THAT A PART IS AT THE END OF ITS USEFUL LIFE AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. WHILE THE MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP OF YOUR BICYCLE OR OF INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS MAY BE COVERED BY A WARRANTY FOR A SPECIFIED PERIOD OF TIME BY THE MANUFACTURER, THIS IS NO GUARANTEE THAT THE PRODUCT WILL LAST THE TERM OF THE WARRANTY. PRODUCT LIFE IS OFTEN RELATED TO THE KIND OF RIDING YOU DO, THE CONDITIONS UNDER WHICH IT IS USED AND STORED AND TO THE TREATMENT TO WHICH YOU SUBMIT THE BICYCLE. THE BICYCLE'S WARRANTY IS NOT MEANT TO SUGGEST THAT THE BICYCLE CANNOT BE BROKEN OR WILL LAST FOREVER. IT ONLY MEANS THAT THE BICYCLE IS COVERED SUBJECT TO THE TERMS OF THE WARRANTY. PLEASE BE SURE TO READ APPENDIX A, THE LIFESPAN OF YOUR BICYCLE AND ITS COMPONENTS, STARTING ON PAGE 18. 6. As required: If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C), don't ride the bike. Have your dealer check the brakes. If the chain won't shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear, the derailleur is out of adjustment. See your dealer. 7. Every 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your bike to a qualified bicycle mechanic for a complete checkup. For additional information about bicycle maintenance, check out www.mobiabikes.com/support
B. IF YOUR BICYCLE SUSTAINS AN IMPACT: First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can. Seek medical help if necessary. Next, check your bike for damage. After any crash, take your bike to a qualified bicycle mechanic for a thorough check of all components, including fames, wheels, handlebars, stems, cranksets, brakes, etc. Those components which have sustained an impact must not be ridden until they have been disassembled and thoroughly inspected by a qualified mechanic. See also Appendix A, Lifespan of your bike and its components.
WARNING: A CRASH OR OTHER IMPACT CAN PUT EXTRAORDINARY STRESS ON BICYCLE COMPONENTS, CAUSING THEM TO FATIGUE PREMATURELY. COMPONENTS SUFFERING FROM STRESS FATIGUE CAN FAIL SUDDENLY AND CATASTROPHICALLY, CAUSING LOSS OF CONTROL, SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
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APPENDIX A
The lifespan of your bike and its components
1. Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike. When the useful life of your bike or its components is over, continued use is hazardous. Every bicycle and its component parts have a finite, limited useful life. The length of that life will vary with the construction and materials used in the frame and components; the maintenance and care the frame and components receive over their life; and the type and amount of use to which the frame and components are subjected. Use in competitive events, trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities and other types of non-standard use can dramatically shorten the life of the frame and components. Any one or a combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure.
All aspects of use being identical, lightweight bicycles and their components will usually have a shorter life than heavier bicycles and their components. In selecting a lightweight bicycle or components you are making a tradeoff, favoring the higher performance that comes with lighter weight over longevity. So, if you choose lightweight, high performance equipment, be sure to have it inspected frequently.
You should have your bicycle and its components checked periodically by your dealer for indicators of stress and/or potential failure, including cracks, deformation, corrosion, paint peeling, dents, and any other indicators of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are important safety checks and very important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened product life.
2. Perspective Today's high-performance bicycles require frequent and careful inspection and service. In this Appendix we try to explain some underlying material science basics and how they relate to your bicycle. We discuss some of the trade-offs made in designing your bicycle and what you can expect from your bicycle; and we provide important, basic guidelines on how to maintain and inspect it. We cannot teach you everything you need to know to properly inspect and service your bicycle; and that is why we repeatedly urge you to take your bicycle to your dealer for professional care and attention.
WARNING: FREQUENT INSPECTION OF YOUR BIKE IS IMPORTANT TO YOUR SAFETY. FOLLOW THE MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK IN SECTION 1.C OF THIS MANUAL BEFORE EVERY RIDE. PERIODIC, MORE DETAILED INSPECTION OF YOUR BICYCLE IS IMPORTANT. HOW OFTEN THIS MORE DETAILED INSPECTION IS NEEDED DEPENDS UPON YOU. YOU, THE RIDER/OWNER, HAVE CONTROL AND KNOWLEDGE OF HOW OFTEN YOU USE YOUR BIKE, HOW HARD YOU USE IT AND WHERE YOU USE IT. BECAUSE A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE DEALER CANNOT TRACK YOUR USE, YOU MUST TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR PERIODICALLY BRINGING YOUR BIKE TO A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE DEALER FOR INSPECTION AND SERVICE. A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE DEALER WILL HELP YOU DECIDE WHAT FREQUENCY OF INSPECTION AND SERVICE IS APPROPRIATE FOR HOW AND WHERE YOU USE YOUR BIKE.
FOR YOUR SAFETY, UNDERSTANDING AND COMMUNICATION WITH A PROFESSIONAL BICYCLE DEALER, WE URGE YOU TO READ THIS APPENDIX IN ITS ENTIRETY. THE MATERIALS USED TO MAKE THIS TO MAKE YOUR BIKE DETERMINE HOW AND HOW FREQUENTLY TO INSPECT. IGNORING THIS WARNING CAN LEAD TO FRAME, FORK, OR OTHER COMPONENT FAILURE, WHICH CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
A. Understanding metals Steel is the traditional material for building bicycle frames. It has good characteristics, but in high performance bicycles, steel has been largely replaced by aluminum and some titanium. The main factor driving this change is interest in lighter bicycles by cycling enthusiasts.
Properties of Metals Please understand that there is no simple statement that can be made that characterizes the use of different metals for bicycles. What is true is how the metal chosen is applied is much more important than the material alone. One must look at the way the bike is designed, tested, manufactured, supported along with the characteristics of the metal rather than seeking a simplistic answer.
Metals vary widely in their resistance to corrosion. Steel must be protected or rust will attack it. Aluminum and Titanium quickly develop an oxide film that protects the metal from further corrosion. Both
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are therefore quite resistant to corrosion. Aluminum is not perfectly corrosion resistant, and particular care must be used where it contacts other metals and galvanic corrosion can occur.
Metals are comparatively ductile. Ductile means bending, buckling and stretching before breaking. Generally speaking, of the common bicycle frame building materials steel is the most ductile, titanium less ductile, followed by aluminum.
Metals vary in density. Density is weight per unit of material. Steel weighs 7.8 grams/cm3 (grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3, aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast these numbers with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 grams/cm3.
Metals are subject to fatigue. With enough cycles of use, at high enough loads, metals will eventually develop cracks that lead to failure. It is very important that you read the basics of metal fatigue below.
Let's say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, another cyclist or other object. At any speed above a fast walk, your body will continue to move forward, momentum carrying you over the front of the bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike, and what happens to the frame, fork and other components is irrelevant to what happens to your body.
What should you expect from your metal frame? It depends on many complex factors, which is why we tell you that crashworthiness cannot be a design criteria. With that important note, we can tell you that if the impact is hard enough the fork or frame may be bent or buckled. On a steel bike, the steel fork may be severely bent and the frame undamaged. Aluminum is less ductile than steel, but you can expect the fork and frame to be bent or buckled. Hit harder and the top tube may be broken in tension and the down tube buckled. Hit harder and the top tube may be broken, the down tube buckled and broken, leaving the head tube and fork separated from the main triangle.
When a metal bike crashes, you will usually see some evidence of this ductility in bent, buckled or folded metal. It is now common for the main frame to be made of metal and the fork of carbon fiber. See Section B, Understanding composites below. The relative ductility of metals and the lack of ductility of carbon fiber means that in a crash scenario you can expect some bending or buckling in the metal but none in the carbon. Below some load the carbon fork may be intact even though the frame is damaged. Above some load the carbon fork will be completely broken.
The basics of metal fatigue Common sense tells us that nothing that is used lasts forever. The more you use something, and the harder you use it, and the worse the conditions you use it in, the shorter its life.
Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated damage to a part caused by repeated loading. To cause fatigue damage, the load the part receives must be great enough. A crude, often-used example is bending a paper clip back and forth (repeated loading) until it breaks. This simple definition will help you understand that fatigue has nothing to do with time or age. A bicycle in a garage does not fatigue. Fatigue happens only through use.
So what kind of "damage" are we talking about? On a microscopic level, a crack forms in a highly stressed area. As the load is repeatedly applied, the crack grows. At some point the crack becomes visible to the naked eye. Eventually it becomes so large that the part is too weak to carry the load that it could carry without the crack. At that point there can be a complete and immediate failure of the part.
One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue life is nearly infinite. This requires a lot of material and a lot of weight. Any structure that must be light and strong will have a finite fatigue life. Aircraft, race cars, motorcycles all have parts with finite fatigue lives. If you wanted a bicycle with an infinite fatigue life, it would weigh far more than any bicycle sold today. So we all make a tradeoff: the wonderful, lightweight performance we want requires that we inspect the structure.
19

What to look for

· ONCE A CRACKS STARTS IT CAN GROW AND GROW FAST. Think about the crack as forming a pathway to failure. This means that any crack is potentially dangerous
and will only become more dangerous.

SIMPLE RULE 1: If you find crack, replace the part.

· C ORROSION SPEEDS DAMAGE. Cracks grow more quickly when they are in a corrosive environment. Think about the corrosive solution as further weakening and extending the crack.

SIMPLE RULE 2: Clean your bike, lubricate your bike, protect your bike from salt, remove any salt as soon as you can.

· SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS OR SCORING CREATE STARTING POINTS FOR CRACKS. Think about the cut surface as a focal point for stress (in fact engineers call such areas "stress risers," areas where the stress is increased). Perhaps you have seen glass cut? Recall how the glass was scored and then broke on the scored line.

SIMPLE RULE 4: Do not scratch, gouge or score any surface. If you do, pay frequent attention to this area or replace the part.

· SOME CRACKS (particularly larger ones) MAY MAKE CREAKING NOISE AS YOU RIDE. Think about such a noise as a serious warning signal. Note that a well-maintained
bicycle will be very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks.

SIMPLE RULE 5: Investigate and find the source of any noise. It may not be a crack, but whatever is causing the noise should be fixed promptly.

Fatigue Is Not A Perfectly Predictable Science Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but here are some general factors to help you determine how often your bicycle should be inspected. The more you fit the "shorten product life" profile, the more frequent your need to inspect. The more you fit the "lengthen product life" profile, the less frequent your need to inspect.

Factors that shorten product life:  Hard, harsh riding style  "Hits", crashes, jumps, other "shots" to the bike  High mileage  Higher body weight  Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider  Corrosive environment (wet, salt air, winter road salt, accumulated sweat)  Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand, soil in riding environment

Factors that lengthen product life:  Smooth, fluid riding style  No "hits", crashes, jumps, other "shots" to the bike  Low mileage  Lower body weight  Less aggressive rider  Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air)  Clean riding environment

WARNING: DO NOT RIDE A BICYCLE OR COMPONENT WITH ANY CRACK, BULGE OR DENT, EVEN A SMALL ONE. RIDING A CRACKED FRAME, FORK OR COMPONENT COULD LEAD TO COMPLETE FAILURE, WITH RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

B. Understanding components It is often necessary to remove and disassemble components in order to properly and carefully inspect them. This is a job for a professional bicycle mechanic with the special tools, skills and experience to inspect and service today's high-tech high-performance bicycles and their components.

Aftermarket "Super Light" components Think carefully about your rider profile as outlined above. The more you fit the "shorten product life" profile, the more you must question the use of super light components. The more you fit the "lengthen product life" profile, the more likely it is that lighter components may be suitable for you. Discuss your needs and your profile very honestly with your dealer.

Take these choices seriously and understand that you are responsible for the changes. A useful slogan to discuss with your dealer if you contemplate changing components is "Strong, Light, Cheap ­pick two."

Original Equipment components Bicycle and component manufacturers tests the fatigue life of the components that are original equipment on your bike. This means that they have met test criteria and have reasonable fatigue life. It does not mean that the original components will last forever. They won't.
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APPENDIX B
Fastener Torque Specifications
Correct tightening torque of threaded fasteners is very important to your safety. Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. In case of a conflict between the instructions in this manual and information provided by a component manufacturer, consult with your dealer or the manufacturer's customer service representative for clarification. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt.
Always use a correctly calibrated torque wrench to tighten critical fasteners on your bike. Carefully follow the torque wrench manufacturer's instructions on the correct way to set and use the torque wrench for accurate results.
Please refer to Image 10 & Image 11 to understand which parts tighten to the recommended torque values below.

Frame

(1)

Frame dropout break

(2)

Dropout (slider)

(3)

M6 (2-bolts) M6 attachement (2-bolts) M5 tension adjustment bolts

Seatposts

(4)

1-bolt head clamp (M8 Bolt) Alloy post

(5)

Tamper proof bolt

M5 (bottom of seat tube)

Pedals

(6)

Pedal to crank interface

(7)

Composite, black Aluminum, silver

Cranks

(8)

Alloy

(9)

Bottom bracket

Square taper spindle Threaded

Stems

(10)

Stem at steer tube (2-bolt)

Alloy Ø28.6

(11)

Stem at handlebar (4-bolt)

Alloy Ø25.4

Shifters

(12)

Sturmey Archer

TSC300X Rotary shifter

Brakes

(13)

Sturney Archer

BLS81 brake lever

Wheels

(14)

Front Axle

(15)

Rear Axle

M9 Threaded axle 3/8", M10 Threaded axle

Miscellaneous

(16)

Bell

(17)

Bell/Chain guard

(18)

Fender mounting bolts

(19)

Headset

(20)

Industrial basket

(21)

(22)

(23)

(24)

Kickstand

(25)

Reflector

(26)

Compression cap Fork crown (single bolt) Fork crown (M6 bolts) Support bracket (bottom of basket) Support bracket (dropout)
Front basket Rear seatpost reflector bracket

21

in-lbf 62 62 53 in-lbf 70
in-lbf 304 304 in-lbf 305 442 in-lbf 53 44 in-lbf 13 in-lbf 62 in-lbf 204 221 in-lbf 13 53 53 53 62 62 62 53 200 33 33

N*m 7 7 6 N*m 8
N*m 34.3 34.3 N*m 34.5 49.9 N*m 6 5 N*m 1.5 N*m 7 N*m 23 25 N*m 1.5 6 6 6 7 7 7 6 22.6 3.7 3.7

INDUSTRIAL
IMAGE 10 19
10 20 01 04 26
17

05

06

08 09 07

02

18 15 03

24 17

URBAN COMMUTER
IMAGE 11 13
19
10

01 04 26
17

05

06

08 09 07

03

24 17

02

18 15

22

16 11
21

22 25

23

18 14
16 12 11
25

18

14

W W W. M O B I A B I K E S . C O M


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